- 29/11/17
Four Parts: If you've forgotten the combination to your safe, resorting to a professional locksmith could cost a lot of money, while forcing your way through could ruin both tools and safe. Cracking the combination yourself takes a great deal of patience and effort, but you are rewarded with a full wallet, an undamaged safe, and a sense of satisfaction. The highly detailed steps in this article can also provide fantastic details for any writers of fiction wishing to include a dramatic safe cracking scene in their work. Read on from step one to found out how to open a safe you have permission to crack or a fictional one! Understand a safe's wheels. Also called tumblers, these circular objects encircle the spindle but are not attached to them.
They must be caught by the drive pin in order to rotate. • A combination lock has one wheel for each number in its combination (typically 2–6). For instance, a lock with a 3-number combination (e.g. 25-7-14) has three wheels. • Knowing how many wheels there are is important for cracking the safe, but there are ways to discover this number without knowing the combination (see later parts).
Feb 11, 2016 But with the magnet trick, it takes Whin-Yates about two seconds to access a popular type of safe he bought at Staples for $250: 'Different types of magnets will open up most hotel rooms, most inexpensive safes and most apartment buildings,' Whin-Yates said in the clip. Mosler usually has a set number of turns on the first number as well. Plus the directions shown look backwards. Try Left 4 turns to 63, Right 3 turns to 47, Left 2 turns to 25 then right 1 turn to 0 continue turning to the right till the dial stops and you can open the safe. The Mosler Safe Company was a manufacturer of security equipment—most notably safes and bank vaults—from 1874 until its bankruptcy in 2001. Founded in Cincinnati by Gustave Mosler and Fred Bahmann as Mosler, Bahmann & Company in 1867. In 1874 after Gustave's death, the Mosler family had a falling out with Mr. Bahmann, leaving Mosler. SentrySafe puts all sorts of measures in place to protect your valuables and important documents. This particular SentrySafe has an electronic lock, four 1-inch bolts to keep the door firmly in place, pry-resistant hinges, and it's able to withstand drops of up to 15 feet. That all sounds great, until you find out that you can open this safe—and pretty much every safe like it—in a matter.
Try your numbers 2550 25 or 50 2550 I have a Mosler safe to that has a seat in side from the post office I can get into the safe that's in side but I forgot my combination to the outside and can't find anybody to help me to open it.
• Small tabs on the wheel called the wheel fly catch against the drive pin or next wheel and sets them rotating. This term is not important to remember for this guide; just know that the drive cam makes contact with the wheels to set them spinning. Understand how wheel notches come into play. Each wheel has a notch (also called a gate) at one point along its circumference. When each wheel is rotated so the notch is at the top, the fence falls into those notches. The lever moves, and the door mechanism is unlocked.
• You can see why there is one wheel for each combination number. When you dial the first number, the first wheel is rotated to a position with its notch directly below the fence. You then reverse the direction of your rotation to disengage with that wheel and turn the next to its correct position. • The drive cam also has a notch for different reasons.
Paul Midgette Posts. Back in '93 I tried to crack a combination lock using the robotics kits we had in my. I have an old Mosler safe having 4. Mosler- Safe/. The front reads (from top to bottom): Galmar Nelson Lumber Co.; The Mosler Safe. There is a safe cracking. Safe Cracking; Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last. Jump to page. But first I would contact. About 15 years ago I bought a Mosler safe from a plant I worked in - brand new, 10 years old and open - for $20. Decoding a mosler safe in reply to Duke.
The intended purpose is not important to know for this guide, but remember that this notch will 'click' every time it slips past the lever (stationary part attached to the fence). • (Extra information for the curious: once the fence falls and releases the locking mechanism, the drive cam notch catches onto the bolt physically blocking the door and pulls it out of the way.). Place a stethoscope near the dial surface. Believe it or not, this Hollywood trope is actually used by professional locksmiths. Placing the stethoscope in both ears and the bell end against the safe wall amplifies the sounds you're listening for. • The mechanism you're listening to is located directly behind the dial, but obviously you cannot cover up the dial since you'll need to turn it.
Try moving the stethoscope between different spots adjacent to the dial as you spin the combination until you find the most audible location. • Metal safes reverberate the sounds and make them easier to hear. These are a good choice for a beginning hobbyist. Rotate the dial counterclockwise and listen carefully for two clicks near each other. Rotate slowly and be ready to note the dial positions. • One click will be fainter than the other, since the notch making the sound is sloped toward one side. • You're listening for the sound the drive cam notch makes when it slides under the lever arm (see Learn How a Combination Lock Functions).
Each side of the notch 'clicks' as the lever passes. • The drive cam's contact area is the name of the area on the dial face between these two clicks.
I bought this Meilink safe at auction. Sadly, the safe is locked and the combination is not available.
(Fortunately, at the same auction I bought a very nice Mosler safe with a secret lockable compartment that is open). Before I scrap this Meilink safe, I want to crack it open to see if perhaps there is gold or diamonds or some such inside. I have a acetylene torch, forklifts, etc. I am not interested in spending big money on locksmiths, safe crackers etc and I do not care to preserve the mechanism. This is a light duty safe and it weighs under 300 lbs. Any quick ideas of what I can do with it without wasting too much time.
Torch it from the bottom? I Stormin Mormon 08:06. In rec.crafts.metalworking Stormin Mormon wrote: >On 3/20/2014 12:15 PM, Cydrome Leader wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>Any quick ideas of what I can do with it without wasting too much >>>time. Torch it from the bottom?
>>>>too bad it's not cold out anymore. You could fill it with water and let it >>freeze.
>>Just truck freight it to some place cold? We had the perfect winter here in Chicago for fun activities like that. Could have just left it outside with a tarp over it for a couple days. Peter Fairbrother 10:48.
It looks more like a fire safe for protecting documents in a fire rather than a safe for valuables to me. Which means torching it from the bottom will take a lot of time and gas, and will likely destroy any interesting contents.
Dropping it a few times from a great height onto concrete or similar, or running a forklift into it, may break the Ming vase or anything else breakable inside, but should not burn any bearer bonds, diamonds (yes, they burn), money etc. You pays your money and you takes your chances. Shouldn't be too hard to crack though. I think there is also a very quick technique with a forklift which crooks use, but I can't remember it.
- Peter F Tim Wescott 11:40. Richard Feynmann, in his memoirs, has a very amusing chapter about safe- cracking (he was the unofficial safe-cracker for the Manhattan Project at Los Alamos, which he started mostly by playing jokes on his buddies). The VERY FIRST thing you do is call the manufacturer and ask them if they have a default combination when they ship the safe. Most safes with combinations that can be changed ship with the factory combination, and many people (particularly if it's a fire safe) don't bother with changing it. If it works, I'm a freaking genius.
If it doesn't -- well, then I'm no worse off than I am now, right? -- Tim Wescott Wescott Design Services Jon Elson 11:51. In rec.crafts.metalworking, Tim Wescott wrote: >On Thu, 20 Mar 2014 09:42:26 -0500, Ignoramus10422 wrote: >>I bought this Meilink safe at auction.
Sadly, the safe is locked and the >>combination is not available. >The VERY FIRST thing you do is call the manufacturer and ask them if they >have a default combination when they ship the safe. Most safes with >combinations that can be changed ship with the factory combination, and >many people (particularly if it's a fire safe) don't bother with changing >it. After that, hire a safecracker off craigslist: Excerpt: Wyatt, 51, is a man with time on his hands.
He defines himself as a marginally employed computer repairman, a tinkerer in all things mechanical and an unrepentant coffee-shop slacker. He learned everything he knows about safecracking from a 34-page PDF document he found while doing a Google search on 'safecracking for the computer scientist.' [.] Rodgers recently bought a mid-century home in the Upper Castro neighborhood, which came complete with a 1-ton antique safe that prevented him from parking his car in the garage. He was offering 25 percent of the unknown contents to any person who could open the safe. The only catch was that the safecracker had to haul away the cracked safe when the job was done. [.] At 10:22 a.m., Wyatt cried out, 'I got it!'
Wintv Serial Key more. Rodgers came running over just as the several-hundred-pound door fell off the safe - a contractor had removed the hinges in a previously failed attempt to get in. Wyatt's reward was indeed 25 percent of the air in the safe.
Apart from that, nothing was inside. Still, Wyatt had a giant grin on his face as he held the inner workings of a lock like a shiny piece of gold. His curiosity had been quenched.
Elijah ------ no word how Wyatt, on his bicycle, was getting the safe out of there Leon Fisk 11:58. On Thu, 20 Mar 2014 09:42:26 -0500 Ignoramus10422 wrote: >I bought this Meilink safe at auction. Sadly, the safe is locked and >the combination is not available. >>>Any quick ideas of what I can do with it without wasting too much >time. Torch it from the bottom?
First off I would try forcing a large, 6 ft or so pry bar in between the door and side. Maybe use a small sledge and some cold chisels along the same edge to gain some room for the big pry.
It really depends on how many bolts are in the door, how long they are, how well anchored. But I think a big pry bar will bend/spring the side away for you to gain entry:) -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email David Billington 13:30. On 20/03/14 14:42, Ignoramus10422 wrote: I guy I know used to work in a quarry and they had been using an old safe that was around as an anvil for years. At some point it eventually got opened and it was found to be full of sweating dynamite, seems it was the safe for storing it in safely and that had been forgotten. The bomb squad got called and the stuff was safely disposed of and all that had used it thought what if it had gone up, of course if it had they wouldn't have known about it. David Billington 13:36.
On 20/03/14 20:36, David Billington wrote: >Peter, >>I remember an old OU IIRC film and it showed the burning of diamond >but they said the activation energy was so high the diamond needed to be >heated white hot with the likes of an OA torch and then placed in liquid >oxygen where it did burn. I know you're a chemist so maybe you know if >there's more to it. Short version: Carbon in any form will burn in air at above 800C or so, which is within normal flame temperatures.
Above about 650C diamond actually burns at a slightly lower activation energy than graphite or amorphous carbon, though the difference is very small and temperature-dependent. However diamond and graphite present nearly atomically-smooth surfaces to the air, and amorphous carbon doesn't. In the middle of these smooth surfaces the activation energy is quite a bit higher, and the temperature has to be above about 800C - while at the edges, and for the larger surface areas of amorphous carbons, the required temperatures are lower, perhaps 450-500C. And of course the hotter it is, the faster it burns. LOX is cold, and it will cool the carbon as well as reacting with it, so it helps to have the diamond red-hot when it enters the LOX. Not so important with a large diamond, but people don't burn large diamonds in LOX very often. Also diamond conducts heat better than anything else (except graphene) - and by quite a lot, it has about 5 times the thermal conductivity of the next contender, pure silver - so burning small lumps of it in LOX is a bit atypical.
How To Open An Old Safe: Get At The Treasure That Lies Inside
-- Peter F Cydrome Leader 14:11. >>>Any quick ideas of what I can do with it without wasting too much >>>time. Torch it from the bottom? If it's a 'fire safe', and not a security safe, it's easy as heck to get into. Just peel off the sheet metal, crush the gypsum insulation, and cut with anything you like to get the box inside open. There's nothing 'secure' about a fire safe, because they aren't designed for that. Even if it's a security safe, unless it's a high-end one, the door bolts can be cut pretty easily.
It's unusual to find heat-sinking bolts in an inexpensive safe. (and even then, oxy-acetylene can cut the copper inserts, with some time and gas) The whole idea of a 'hardened' safe is to make it take too long for a crook to feel comfortable staying on the job. Someone who has time and no fear of cops or discovery can get into almost any safe with common tools. Lloyd Peter Fairbrother 16:12.
On 3/20/2014 4:30 PM, David Billington wrote: >I guy I know used to work in a quarry and they had been using an old >safe that was around as an anvil for years. At some point it eventually >got opened and it was found to be full of sweating dynamite, seems it >was the safe for storing it in safely and that had been forgotten. The >bomb squad got called and the stuff was safely disposed of and all that >had used it thought what if it had gone up, of course if it had they >wouldn't have known about it. I've heard that dynamite put into a camp fire burns gently without exploding. Ignoramus10422 17:57.
Have you tried the 'storage' combination? Assuming that the dial is a 0-100 dial, try 25, 50, 25, 0, starting to the left with over three full turns and stopping on 25. Then right two full turns plus what it needs to reach 50, then left one full turn plus what is needed to reach 25, and finally right to 0. Then, depending on the lock, either turn a tumbler bar in the center of the knob if present and keep going as far as it will go (perhaps another 1/8 turn or so), or just keep going to the right and see whether it unlocks. If it doesn't work you're out a few minutes of fiddling with the dials. If what is in it is paper, torching it from any surface will likely burn the paper. But the bottom might be the easiest path in.
Or -- put it just outside the door, and let it be known that it has gold in it -- and wait for someone else to open it before you pounce.:-) Good Luck, DoN. -- Remove oil spill source from e-mail Email: (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- Jay Hennigan 20:47. On 3/20/14 7:42 AM, Ignoramus10422 wrote: >I bought this Meilink safe at auction. Sadly, the safe is locked and >the combination is not available. >>>>Before I scrap this Meilink safe, I want to crack it open to see if >perhaps there is gold or diamonds or some such inside.
I have a >acetylene torch, forklifts, etc. A Skilsaw with a cutoff wheel along the left edge of the door about an inch in from the seam should do the trick. You want to cut the bolts, likely two of them equally spaced. Wear goggles! Jon Elson 21:17. On 3/20/2014 10:42 AM, Ignoramus10422 wrote: >I bought this Meilink safe at auction. Sadly, the safe is locked and >the combination is not available.
>>>>(Fortunately, at the same auction I bought a very nice Mosler safe >with a secret lockable compartment that is open). >>Before I scrap this Meilink safe, I want to crack it open to see if >perhaps there is gold or diamonds or some such inside. I have a >acetylene torch, forklifts, etc. >>I am not interested in spending big money on locksmiths, safe crackers >etc and I do not care to preserve the mechanism. This is a light duty >safe and it weighs under 300 lbs.
>>Any quick ideas of what I can do with it without wasting too much >time. Torch it from the bottom? >>i >Drill one hole, fill with water then insert a small explosive charge.
Ignoramus23598 14:38. In article, Ignoramus10422 wrote: >On 2014-03-20, David Billington wrote: >>On 20/03/14 14:42, Ignoramus10422 wrote: >>>I bought this Meilink safe at auction. Sadly, the safe is locked and >>>the combination is not available. >>>>>>>>>>>>(Fortunately, at the same auction I bought a very nice Mosler safe >>>with a secret lockable compartment that is open). >>>>>>Before I scrap this Meilink safe, I want to crack it open to see if >>>perhaps there is gold or diamonds or some such inside. I have a >>>acetylene torch, forklifts, etc. >>>>>>I am not interested in spending big money on locksmiths, safe crackers >>>etc and I do not care to preserve the mechanism.
This is a light duty >>>safe and it weighs under 300 lbs. >>>>>>Any quick ideas of what I can do with it without wasting too much >>>time. Torch it from the bottom?
>>>>>>i >>I guy I know used to work in a quarry and they had been using an old >>safe that was around as an anvil for years. At some point it eventually >>got opened and it was found to be full of sweating dynamite, seems it >>was the safe for storing it in safely and that had been forgotten. The >>bomb squad got called and the stuff was safely disposed of and all that >>had used it thought what if it had gone up, of course if it had they >>wouldn't have known about it. >>What a fun story! Grant Sarver was a working blacksmith in Tacoma WA who had a standing contract with many demo companies to repoint their jackhammer bits. One day he put a pile of bits in the forge to heat up and walked back to his office. The explosion took out is forge, all the windows in his shop and a few other innocent bystander tools nearby.
Turns out the demo company sent him some old bits that had been made from sucker rod from a rock quarry. One of them had been used to pack ammonium nitrate into blast holes and the hole down the center of the bit had become packed full of it. When the ends got peened shut from use nobody knew it was a pipe bomb. You can pound on ammonium nitrate all day long and nothing happens, but it didn't seem to like being heated to 1600 degF. The demo company gave him a new forge and a small pile of cash. Grant Sarver passed away a few years back.
Larry Langdon inherited his bit pointing business. Et.@whidbey.com 17:13. On 2014-03-22, wrote: >On Fri, 21 Mar 2014 17:54:44 -0500, Jon Elson >wrote: >>>Ignoramus23598 wrote: >>>>>Well, I got it opened. Details and photos here: >>>>>>>>Well, that's spectacularly boring! Or, did you lift out the 3 Kg of >>gold bars before you took the picture? >>>>Jon >He doesn't know it but the safe was probably full of Dark Matter. Most >likely WIMPs, AKA Weakly Interacting Massive Particles.
If he tips the >safe over the WIMPs will flow out and through the floor. Then he can >Kenwood Th 75e Manual High School. weigh the safe and tell us how much Dark Matter was in there. >Eric Want to buy that dark matter? It is very valuable dark matter, aged well inside that safe. Nichols 19:06. On 2014-03-21, Ignoramus23598 wrote: >Well, I got it opened. Details and photos here: >>A pity that there was nothing in it.
I would not have expected valuables, but perhaps something interesting to read at least.:-) Did you make any attempt to recover the lock? I would have. Once you have one apart, you can reset the combination to something known.
But working through that hole you made would not be fun, especially if you don't already know how the locks are installed and assembled. -- Remove oil spill source from e-mail Email: (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- Lloyd E. Sponenburgh 19:15. On Thursday, March 20, 2014 at 7:42:26 AM UTC-7, Ignoramus10422 wrote: >I bought this Meilink safe at auction. Sadly, the safe is locked and >the combination is not available. >>>>(Fortunately, at the same auction I bought a very nice Mosler safe >with a secret lockable compartment that is open).
>>Before I scrap this Meilink safe, I want to crack it open to see if >perhaps there is gold or diamonds or some such inside. I have a >acetylene torch, forklifts, etc.
>>I am not interested in spending big money on locksmiths, safe crackers >etc and I do not care to preserve the mechanism. This is a light duty >safe and it weighs under 300 lbs.
>>Any quick ideas of what I can do with it without wasting too much >time. Torch it from the bottom? >>i The safe is a Meilink 9030. Definitely any assistance will be most appreciated. That's about all I can tell you.
His sure hand dances over the dial slowly bringing it to rest on the number 32. Pulling off his ski mask, he presses a keen ear against the cold metal door to listen for the last tiny, but tell-tale click. Beads of sweat appear along his hairline and trace their way down his forehead. After a few tense seconds, he sits back with a knowing smile. After entering the last number of the combination, the thief opens the safe as if it were his own?
In the movies, master thieves and spies can deftly defeat a safe in a matter of seconds using little more than steady hands and a good ear. Safecracking isn't really that easy of course, but expert safecrackers really can get through just about any lock mechanism. It's a matter of having the right tools, the right skills and plenty of patience.
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In this article, we'll examine the fundamentals of this rare skill and show you the ins and outs of safecracking.
Despite the tried-and-true design of the safe, it contains a fundamental weakness: Every safe must be accessible to a locksmith or other authority in the event of a malfunction or lock-out. This weakness forms the basis of safecracking.
In order to understand safecracking, you need to first understand the safe and the basic mechanisms that are used to protect it. Safes come in a variety of sizes and shapes that are specified for home or commercial use. Most safes fall into two categories: the fire safe and the burglary safe. The construction of a safe is specific to its intended function. Depending on the owner's needs, a safe may be wall-mounted, set into (and seemingly under) the floor or simply bolted to the ground.
Antique Mosler Safe Models
Fire safes are reinforced with fire retardant materials but have little in the way of actual protection against unwanted entry. The typical burglary safe is built to withstand a considerable attack. But due to their reinforced steel frames and iron cladding, the burglary safe tends to act like an oven; effectively cooking the contents when exposed to heat or flame.
The most popular method of safecracking is to simply steal the entire safe and move it to a location where the safecracker has the time and tools to take the safe apart and remove its contents. However, when design or circumstances do not permit this, the safecracker must contend with the locking mechanism. We'll look at the locking mechanism in detail in the next section.